Arts and Literature

Clothing and Ornaments

Feather Work

• Capes

• Gathering Feathers

• Feather Leis

• Feather Helmets

• Birds

 

 

Capes

The Hawaiian chiefs and royalty had very rare and valued types of clothing and ornaments made of feathers. The largest of these were full length capes made of netted OLONA twine on the inside with feathers expertly attached to the outside creating a feathered surface with brilliant colors and patterns. Shorter elbow-length feathered capes were also highly valued garments. The feathered capes were called AHUULA.

“Feather capes, some of the most memorable of chiefly regalia, were the province of men until Ka`ahumanu, favorite wife of Kamehameha I, appeared in her husband's golden mantle to announce his dying words. Up to that point, use of feather capes by women was reserved for the wives of chiefs who had followed their men into battle. These women, knowledgeable in the arts of war, aided their husbands as strategists. If their husbands were slain, the women would put on their husband's capes and continue the fight in their stead. But this was an exception, rather than the rule, and only practiced in extremis.
After Ka`ahumanu's public appearance in Kamehameha's `aha`ula, other chiefly women began to wear the short cape.” (by Leilehua Yuen )

Gathering Feathers

The Hawaiian kapunas, who were the wise teachers and experts in special fields,  and who understood and worked the forest regions where these birds lived, were careful not to over kill the bird populations. It is known that Kamehameha instructed them to harvest the o’o birds rare yellow feathers not by killing the birds. Specialized bird catchers, po'e hahai manu, spent long months in forest habitats, catching their elusive prey with fiber nets, nooses and even bare hands. Sap from the breadfruit tree was applied to the limbs of trees that desirable birds were known to favor. Once a bird was caught, the bird catcher softened the adhesive with kukui oil and plucked the needed feathers. Since only a few treasured yellow feathers could be gathered from under the neck, wings and tail of the 'o'o and mamo, these birds were set free, but so many red feathers were gathered from the 'i'iwi and 'apapane, that they were usually killed and eaten.

Feather Leis

Feather leis were worn on the heads of women from prominent families, These were carefully made feathered cords with an inner fiber core upon which bundles of small feathers were attached to created a continuous feathered cord.

The feather lei necklaces worn around the neck and upon the chest were called LEI HULU.

    

 

Feather Helmets

Feathered helmets constructed on a woven fiber foundation were strong, powerful royal and chiefly symbols when worn. The helmets were called  MAHI’OLE and have a solid woven base, often with a stiff skeletal frame wrapped with the woven fiber cordage. These helmets were worn only by the male royalty and would accompany them when wearing their splendid feather capes. Other helmets, made on a similar foundation, but decorated with other items, not feathers, were worn at times by those of lesser rank.

    

Birds

The feather garments and ornaments used by the Ancient Hawaiians included:

The then rare yellow feathers of the now extinct MAMO and O’O, two types of black birds with only a few yellow feathers each.

 

 

 

o’o

mamo

Black feathers were also gathered from the o’o.

 

Bright red feathers came from the ‘I’IWI and a darker red came from the ‘APAPANE.

I’iwi

Apapane

 

A green feather from the ‘O’U was also used.

 

Feathered garments continue in use today at special Hawaiian ceremonies.